Quaint Japanese mountain village alleyway, traditional architecture
Quaint mountain village with traditional Japanese wooden architecture nestled amidst lush greenery.

Tsutsuishi: Where fine days dissolve in smiles

One beautiful summer morning, I head for Tsutsuishi on the local train.

Cocooned in there I soon fall asleep, but when Tsutsuishi is announced I open my eyes. The doors unlock, a cool wind blows into the carriage. Out there it’s as dark as inside an oven, although lights seem to be shining. Could I have slept through the whole trip without realizing that night had fallen? Am I dreaming? I’m the only one leaving the train, which to my dismay pulls off with a phantasmagorical screeching. Around me, the walls – curved – drip with the high humidity. It’s very cold. I go through a door that looks like a nuclear shelter, cross a corridor, the wind lifts me as if to help climb the infinite number of steps leading up. A few minutes later, I’m blinded by the light … divine? No, just finally outside … and it’s very, very hot! Here I am in Tsutsuishi.

The hamlet of Tsutsuishi, on the outskirts of Itoigawa town, is a little-visited corner of Japan. Only the densha-otaku turn up to see the bunker-like station buried 40 m deep. So my trip is a good sign for the village.

Tsutsuishi Village
Tsutsuishi Village

The village, wedged between mountain and sea, has been built in a very restricted space. The two- or three-storey houses are squeezed together along a narrow lane where no cars can pass. There’s no restaurant, only a mini supermarket. It’s morning, the mood is really sweet. “Shitsurei shimasu!” apologize the delivery men, sliding open the doors of the little houses. The obachan are busy with their flowers, others chat among themselves. Their husbands haven’t been home for a long time. As for the young people, if they’re still around, they’ve probably gone fishing.

Tsutsuishi Village
Tsutsuishi Village

At the edge of the village are some old fishermen’s huts (funaya) facing the Sea of Japan. These huts once lined the length of the west coast. Often wiped out by the wind, the weather, or – sad to say – lack of interest, they’re now so rare. Tsutsuishi’s huts are still standing, but for how much longer?

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Who Am I

Jordy Meow
This is me!

I am Jordy Meow, a French photographer based in Tokyo. I explore offbeat places in Japan.

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White forms dance skyward, Green mountains cradle the art, Under cloud-kissed blue. 白い形空へ舞う、 緑の山が芸術を抱き、 雲にキスした青の下で。#sculptureart #japaneseart #naturemeetsart #modernsculpture #offbeatjapan #japan #travelphotography
Darkened stalls await, Whispers of daikagura, Colors in silence. 暗い屋台、 大神楽の囁き、 色の静寂。#offbeatjapan #japan #daikagura #festivalmood #moodytones #wanderlust #hiddenjapan #haiku
Stone pagoda stands, Cosmos in bloom, moon above— Tranquil whispers hum. ---石塔立つ コスモス咲き、月上に— 静寂の囁き ---#offbeatjapan #japan #explorejapan #hiddenjapan #naturephotography #pagoda #serenity #cosmosflowers
Electric rivers, Neon veins pulse through the night— Silent power flows. 電気の川 夜に脈打つネオン— 静かな力が流れる #industrialjapan #neonlights #japanbynight #technologymagic #urbanreflections #offbeatjapan #japan
Scarlet gates basking, Lanterns whisper in the night— Ancient spirits glow. 朱色の鳥居 夜に囁く灯籠 古の魂光る #offbeatjapan #japan #torii #nightmagic #kyoto #shinto #lanternlight #sacredpathway
Blue neon whispers, Winter's glow on sacred paths— Snow dreams softly fall. 青いネオン 聖なる道に舞う、 雪の夢。 #offbeatjapan #japan #neonatnight #winterinJapan #snowyscenes #japanphotos #urbanmagic
Scarlet lantern lights, Leading through nature's embrace— A temple's whisper.赤き灯火 緑に包まれて 寺の囁き#offbeatjapan #japan #mysticalpath #sacredsteps #traditionallanterns #spiritualretreat #templejourney
Rust whispers secrets, in shadows of steel and dust, time's ghostly embrace. 錆が秘密をささやく、 鋼と埃の影に、 時の幽霊の抱擁。 #urbanexploration #haikupoetry #industrialdecay #forgottenworlds #offbeatjapan #japan #postapocalyptic