An alternative guide to Japan

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Fujisan Ryokan, the Night Stands Tall

At the end of a dark road in Iwate, Fujisan Ryokan in Namari Onsen and its bath deep enough to stand in. A night in a ryokan where everything grows upward.

Urban Exploration

We slip through Japan’s forgotten corridors; silent rooftops, rusted tunnels, and cities paused in time.

@jordymeow

@jordymeow

This week in Japan

278 festivals and events, Nov 4 to Nov 10

Wed 4 Nov Event Now Gionza Village Kabuki Takamatsu (Kagawa-cho), Kagawa · until Nov 8 In the hills south of Takamatsu, villagers stage kabuki at a shrine theatre, keeping a farmers' tradition alive. Wed 4 Nov Illumination Now Bonto Lamp Evenings at Torin-in Kyoto (Ukyo, Myoshinji), Kyoto · until Nov 8 Hundreds of small lamps trace patterns in the garden of a Myoshin-ji sub-temple. Wed 4 Nov Illumination Now Suo Kokubunji by Night Hofu, Yamaguchi · until Nov 8 The golden hall of one of the few provincial temples still standing on its Nara-era site glows at night, with concerts. Wed 4 Nov Market Last day Amakusa Great Ceramics Fair Amakusa, Kumamoto About a hundred kilns from Amakusa, the island of porcelain stone, sell direct, with wheel-throwing tryouts. Wed 4 Nov Art festival Now Kyoto Modern Architecture Festival Kyoto, Kyoto · until Nov 8 Meiji to Showa-era banks, schools and cafes open their usually closed doors over two weekends. Wed 4 Nov Matsuri Now Fujinomiya Autumn Festival Fujinomiya, Shizuoka · until Nov 5 Some twenty floats face off in drum and flute duels in front of the head shrine of Mount Fuji. Wed 4 Nov Season Now Hirosaki Castle Chrysanthemum and Autumn Leaves Festival Hirosaki, Aomori · until Nov 8 A thousand red maples, a Mount Iwaki made of chrysanthemums and flower dolls next to neputa paintings. Wed 4 Nov Matsuri Now Gion Odori Kyoto (Gion), Kyoto · until Nov 10 The only geiko and maiko dance show Kyoto stages in autumn, put on by the small Gion Higashi district. Wed 4 Nov Matsuri Last day Karatsu Kunchi Karatsu, Saga Fourteen giant lacquer floats, a lion, a sea bream and samurai helmets among them, are hauled at a run through the town and into deep sand. Wed 4 Nov Market Last day Sugamo Togenuki Jizo Temple Fair Toshima (Sugamo), Tokyo Stalls fill Jizo-dori, the 'Harajuku for grannies', and people wash the Arai Kannon statue where it hurts.

+268 more festivals and shows this week All on the app’s map, day by day. iPhone Android

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Offbeat

Dates estimated from past years: check the official site before you go.

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