An alternative guide to Japan

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Fushimi Hakuseki Inari, 50 Torii Under the Hydrangeas

In a valley of Yokosuka, more than fifty torii climb between cedars and hydrangeas. Fushimi Hakuseki Inari is the wild cousin of Kyoto's great shrine: damper, lonelier, almost absorbed by the mountain.

Urban Exploration

We slip through Japan’s forgotten corridors; silent rooftops, rusted tunnels, and cities paused in time.

@jordymeow

@jordymeow

This week in Japan

280 festivals and events, Nov 6 to Nov 12

Fri 6 Nov Event Now Gionza Village Kabuki Takamatsu (Kagawa-cho), Kagawa · until Nov 8 In the hills south of Takamatsu, villagers stage kabuki at a shrine theatre, keeping a farmers' tradition alive. Fri 6 Nov Illumination Now Bonto Lamp Evenings at Torin-in Kyoto (Ukyo, Myoshinji), Kyoto · until Nov 8 Hundreds of small lamps trace patterns in the garden of a Myoshin-ji sub-temple. Fri 6 Nov Illumination Now Suo Kokubunji by Night Hofu, Yamaguchi · until Nov 8 The golden hall of one of the few provincial temples still standing on its Nara-era site glows at night, with concerts. Fri 6 Nov Art festival Now Kyoto Modern Architecture Festival Kyoto, Kyoto · until Nov 8 Meiji to Showa-era banks, schools and cafes open their usually closed doors over two weekends. Fri 6 Nov Illumination Now Hori Garden autumn night opening Tsuwano, Shimane · until Nov 8 The garden of a copper-mining dynasty opens for three nights, its maples reflected in the pond below the old house. Fri 6 Nov Matsuri Now Tochigi Autumn Float Festival Tochigi, Tochigi · until Nov 8 Every other year, Meiji-era floats topped with tall dolls roll between the town's old warehouses. Fri 6 Nov Exhibition Now Sennyu-ji Four Seasons Fusuma Kyoto (Higashiyama), Kyoto · until Nov 15 For ten days only, the imperial family temple shows a cycle of 42 painted doors of the four seasons. Fri 6 Nov Season Now Hirosaki Castle Chrysanthemum and Autumn Leaves Festival Hirosaki, Aomori · until Nov 8 A thousand red maples, a Mount Iwaki made of chrysanthemums and flower dolls next to neputa paintings. Fri 6 Nov Matsuri Now Gion Odori Kyoto (Gion), Kyoto · until Nov 10 The only geiko and maiko dance show Kyoto stages in autumn, put on by the small Gion Higashi district. Fri 6 Nov Market Now Tori-no-ichi at Hanazono Shrine, Shinjuku Shinjuku, Tokyo · until Nov 7 Lanterns, kumade rakes and 260 street stalls in the middle of Shinjuku, next to Golden Gai, until midnight.

+270 more festivals and shows this week All on the app’s map, day by day. iPhone Android

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Offbeat

Dates estimated from past years: check the official site before you go.

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