An alternative guide to Japan

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Darumayama Kōgen, Fuji Filling the Frame

At Darumayama Kōgen, on the Izu Peninsula, an old volcano offers two sunsets at once: Fuji across Suruga Bay on one side, the Sagami Sea on the other. A walk to the summit.

Urban Exploration

We slip through Japan’s forgotten corridors; silent rooftops, rusted tunnels, and cities paused in time.

@jordymeow

@jordymeow

This week in Japan

272 festivals and events, Oct 30 to Nov 5

Fri 30 Oct Art festival Now Miyama Craft Week Hioki (Higashi-Ichiki), Kagoshima · until Nov 3 The Satsuma-ware potters village opens its kilns and studios for five days of crafts and shows. Fri 30 Oct Illumination Now Bonto Lamp Evenings at Torin-in Kyoto (Ukyo, Myoshinji), Kyoto · until Nov 8 Hundreds of small lamps trace patterns in the garden of a Myoshin-ji sub-temple. Fri 30 Oct Market Now Himeji National Pottery Fair Himeji, Hyogo · until Nov 3 About thirty pottery regions sell bowls and plates in the castle's shadow, with wheel and kintsugi workshops. Fri 30 Oct Season Now Hirosaki Castle Chrysanthemum and Autumn Leaves Festival Hirosaki, Aomori · until Nov 8 A thousand red maples, a Mount Iwaki made of chrysanthemums and flower dolls next to neputa paintings. Fri 30 Oct Market Now Kyoto Antique Fair Kyoto (Fushimi), Kyoto · until Nov 1 Three days, hundreds of dealers and 150,000 objects: tea wares, prints, armour, ceramics and Meiji curios. Fri 30 Oct Market Now Chion-ji Autumn Old Book Fair Kyoto (Sakyo), Kyoto · until Nov 3 Dozens of secondhand booksellers fill the Hyakumanben temple, which even holds a service for old books. Fri 30 Oct Matsuri Now Saga International Balloon Fiesta Saga, Saga · until Nov 3 Over a hundred hot-air balloons lift off at dawn above Saga's rice fields, then glow at night like giant lanterns. Sat 31 Oct Illumination Soon Suo Kokubunji by Night Hofu, Yamaguchi · until Nov 8 The golden hall of one of the few provincial temples still standing on its Nara-era site glows at night, with concerts. Sat 31 Oct Season Soon Shichimenso Red Seashore Festival Saga (Higashiyoka), Saga · until Nov 1 On the Ariake Sea mudflats, a salt plant turns red like maple leaves as far as the eye can see. Sat 31 Oct Market Soon Amakusa Great Ceramics Fair Amakusa, Kumamoto · until Nov 4 About a hundred kilns from Amakusa, the island of porcelain stone, sell direct, with wheel-throwing tryouts. Sat 31 Oct Illumination Soon Izumi Bamboo Lantern Festival Izumi, Kagoshima · until Nov 3 Bamboo lanterns light the samurai houses of Izumi's Fumoto district, just as the cranes arrive for winter. Sat 31 Oct Art festival Soon Kyoto Modern Architecture Festival Kyoto, Kyoto · until Nov 8 Meiji to Showa-era banks, schools and cafes open their usually closed doors over two weekends.

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Offbeat

Dates estimated from past years: check the official site before you go.

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