Winter

Winter

I follow Japan’s winter hush; snow-lit streets, ice beaches, and secret onsen towns tucked into the white.

Restful intimacy in cluttered bedroom with sleeping couple, highlighting privacy and exhaustion. Off the map
Nagano

Nagano with Friends: Onsen and Nakayoshi

We reach the end of our Nagano adventures, told in drawings by Sophie Dreamy: a manga café, a snowbound haikyo, and one last onsen with friends.

Difficulty
Risk
Abashiri Prison corridor in Hokkaido, Japan with rows of weathered wooden cell doors
Hokkaido

Abashiri Prison: A How-To for Not Escaping

In the late 1800s, prisoners were sent to Abashiri to build their own jail and open up northern Japan with chains, picks and snow. Today it's a museum. The mood has stayed.

Interior of Dōgo Onsen bathhouse with steaming stone bath, blue mural, and washing stations
Ehime

Alone at Dōgo Onsen: The Empty Bathhouse

One of Japan's oldest baths, in Matsuyama, with its Spirited Away looks. I got to stand inside the Dōgo Onsen Honkan alone during COVID, photographing a bath with no bathers.

Daruma doll burning ritual at Shorinzan Temple, Japan, surrounded by flames and ash.
Gunma

Shōrinzan Daruma: The Market and the Flames

Every 6–7 January, Shōrinzan Daruma-ji in Takasaki holds its great daruma market — before returning the past year's wishes to the flames in the otakiage fire.

Enchanting Emerald Forest Haven Easy walk
Chubu

Shirakoma Forest: Magical Moss Wonderland

A mystical virgin woodland with 500 moss species, ancient trees, and the legend of the White Horse Pond.

Some crowds
Half day (3–5 hours) for a loop walk and moss-viewing stops; Full day if combining with nearby Yatsugatake-area sightseeing
Snowy Seattle Marina Cityscape Crisp
Japan

My Snowy Tokyo at Night

Discover the capital city in winter under a thick layer of snow ...

Winter Festival
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Snowy Magome-juku: Preserved Japanese Post Town Charm Easy walk
Autumn

Magome for All Tastes

Discover the picturesque little village of Magome at all seasons. Whatever the weather, this place isn’t lacking in charm!

Some crowds
Half day (2–4 hours) for the village; full day if pairing with a Nakasendo walk (e.g., toward nearby post towns).
Mesmerizing Otsu Beach Winter Seascape Luminous
Hokkaido

Otsu: The Beach of Ice Jewels

Jewelry Ice is a completely unique phenomenon that can be observed on Otsu Beach, in the town of Toyokoro, Hokkaido. In winter, the Tokachi River, which flows near this fishing village, freezes under the region's extremely cold temperatures.

Jewelry Ice Peak
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Enchanting Zao Snow Monsters, Twisted Winter Wonderland Haunting
Winter

The Snow Monsters of Mount Zao

It’s not an easy encounter. I’d already visited a few years ago, but a gathering storm made it impossible for me to approach these monsters and stroke their silken fur.

Snow Monsters
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