Senjugahama is a 2-km beach on the western shore of Lake Chuzenji, near Nikko (Tochigi prefecture), in the mountains north of Tokyo. It’s very popular in summer with townies trying to cool down and photographers who come to admire the primroses flowering in June.
Access to this area, protected for its rare natural species, is only on foot and by boat or ecobus shuttle.
In the vicinity are species of Mizunara oak (Quercus phillyraeoides) and Harunire elm (Ulmus davidiana) over 200 years old.
In Senjugahama there is also the “Sente Kannon” hall, built by Shodo Shonin (founder of Nikko) after seeing the goddess of mercy with a thousand arms.
Lake Chuzenji 中禅寺湖
Twenty thousand years ago, the eruption of Mount Nantai blocked a river and created Lake Chuzenji. The lake, lying at an altitude of 1,269 metres, is the ideal refuge from the heat and humidity of the Japanese summer. A sublime landscape is offered every season: the blossoming of cherry trees in spring, the blooming of primroses in summer, the bright red of momiji (Japanese maple) in autumn and the festival in winter.
In 1902, the Chuzenji temple was severely damaged by a tsunami. The Kannon room was swept into the lake, but the image of the goddess with a thousand arms floated unharmed on the surface. The temple has since been rebuilt and is still dedicated to the goddess of mercy.
From the mid-Meiji to the early Showa periods, the lake shore was popular with foreign emissaries living in Japan. Many European and American embassies built a holiday villa. Diplomats came to enjoy the freshness of the landscape. The park and residence of the Italian embassy are open to visitors.
After the earthquake of 11 March 2011, Lake Chuzenji was impacted by the accident at the Fukushima nuclear power plant. The production promotion division of Tochigi prefecture has banned taking home fish from the lake since 2012. The ban was lifted in 2017 for rainbow trout, but remains in place for other species.
Japanese primroses クリンソウ
Japanese primroses grow in wetlands such as the mountains of Hokkaido, Honshu and Shikoku. They particularly like marshy places, which is why there are so many in Senjugahama.
In other prefectures they are classed as endangered species, but Nikko has many colonies. But to preserve this rare species, a net protects them from trampling deer (and clumsy visitors).
The Senjugahama primrose (Primavera family) has pink, white and red flowers. The flowers form in a circle around a stem 50 cm high. The Japanese name “Kurinso” is thought to be derived from their resemblance to the nine rings 九 輪 found at the end of a pagoda.
Rather less well-known and yet beautiful, flaming orange azaleas ヤ マ ツ ツ ジ bloom in summer along the hiking trail.
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