Immerse in Japanese hospitality at Kanaguya Ryokan - a blend of tradition and comfort.
Immerse in traditional Japanese charm at Kanaguya Ryokans inviting interior.

Yamanouchi: Chihiro, Monkeys & Onsen

My favourite film from the Ghibli studios is Spirited Away. A number of ryokan inspired this anime fantasy, particularly Kanaguya, near the famous Jigokudani monkeys in the town of Yamanouchi.

My favourite film from the Ghibli studios is Spirited Away (千と千尋の神隠し). A number of ryokan (traditional Japanese inns) inspired this anime fantasy, particularly Kanaguya, near the famous Jigokudani monkeys in the town of Yamanouchi (Nagano prefecture), within the maze of streets and hot springs known as Shibu Onsen.

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Kanaguya

This is a historic Japanese inn, there’s no doubt about that! However, in the late ’70s it had become very gloomy and dilapidated inside. The monkeys had no difficulty squeezing themselves through the old wooden windows and were a real problem for guests. Kanaguya was no longer a comfortable place to stay and was about to close its doors.

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Then the son of the former owner took over the inn, revamped, restored and reopened it, at a price affordable even for young people. When Chihiro moves there and enters the spirit world … the tourists willingly follow 🙂

Older Yamanouchi residents, however, have touching memories of the original Kanaguya inn. I certainly didn’t know it (hey, I’m not that old) but I’ve stayed there a couple of times.

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The first visit was with my parents in 2009. We had misunderstood which were the public and which were the private baths and the four of us (my mum, dad, ex-girlfriend and me) ended up in a public bath. Japanese people were arriving naked and my mother quite naturally said: They look surprised but they can come in with us, can’t they? It was rather funny! That’s the bath below.

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After a good soak you’re entitled to a typical ryokan dinner. If you ask me the food looks better than it tastes, but it’s healthy, and an original experience if you’re not used to it.

And then back to the baths. Click on the rotenburo (outdoor bath), don’t you see something hidden? Such as a little hairy beastie? 🙂

Back to your room to sleep? No! Kanaguya is a virtual labyrinth, so I’d suggest  drinking plenty of atsukan (hot sake) with your meal and refreshing yourself with beer after the last bath (or in the bath directly if it’s private), then you’ll appreciate losing yourself in the nooks and crannies of the old building.

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If your heart’s still in it (bravo), go outside, and you can try Shibu Onsen’s public baths and explore its alleyways.

Shibu Onsen

Shibu Onsen is part of Yamanouchi town, whose history goes back to 1303. The main paved street is surrounded by 25 ryokans and 9 public baths (which you can use free if you’re staying at a local ryokan).

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The hot spring town was originally popular with priests from Kyoto for the healing properties of its waters. During the Edo period, samurai of the Sanada clan replaced them. The samurai were great onsen fans, and I suspect they were the main patrons.

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Shibu Onsen became very popular after the Second World War, until the ’70s when the region grew rather old-fashioned and neglected. Cool 😉 Kanaguya, a few other ryokan and the village’s proximity to Jigokudani have now boosted its popularity.

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To be honest, there isn’t much to do or places to eat … apart from a very special izakaya, Cyo-kun Izakaya, run by Toru-san. There’s no menu, the only offering is nanka (which means … “something”) at 500Y. You can drink beer (or whatever you want) and as long as you’re hungry, ask for nanka and he’ll serve you something. Be prepared, he likes to talk, his cooking is simple, neither fancy nor romantic. But you’ll have a great time together 😉

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Jigokudani

Do I need to introduce you to Jigokudani? No, I didn’t think so. It’s an extremely touristy place where monkeys warm themselves up bathing in a relatively small hot spring.

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Don’t get the wrong idea, they’re there because they’re well fed so as to contribute to the local economy 🙂 But it’s a friendly place that lends itself to original photos.

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I know many of you have visited Jigokudani, so what did you think of it?

And for more awesome content about Japan, follow Jordy Meow on Instagram ! 🎵

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Who Am I

Jordy Meow
This is me!

I am Jordy Meow, a French photographer based in Tokyo. I explore offbeat places in Japan.

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Emerald whispers, A beckoning cat stands proud— Luck's silent promise. エメラルドのささやき、 招き猫は誇りに立つ— 静かな約束。 #manekineko #japantravel #shrine #instatravel #mysticalplaces #offbeatjapan #japan
Blossoms whispering, Torii stands between old stones, Spring's breath in silent.桜囁く 古石を越え鳥居 静かなる春#offbeatjapan #japan #sakura #serenity #shinto #cherryblossoms #tradition
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Rust embraces gray tones, Moss dances in vivid green— Nature's quiet claim.錆びた灰色に抱かれ 苔が鮮やかに踊る 自然の静かなる主張#offbeatjapan #japan #industrialart #rustandruin #naturewins #urbanexploration #mossybeauty
Concrete gray fortress Amidst the blue sea's embrace— Silent echoes speak. コンクリートの城 青い海の抱擁の中で— 静かな声が響く。 #Gunkanjima #HashimaIsland #BattleshipIsland #Nagasaki #Urbex #offbeatjapan #japan
Ancient coaster sleeps, Twilight whispers pinks and blues, Nature reclaims all. 崩れたコースターが眠る、 薄桃色と青の夜明けのささやき、 自然が全てを取り戻す。 #offbeatjapan #japan #abandonedplaces #rollercoaster #twilightbeauty #nostalgia #naturestriumph #forgottenamusement