A lord of the castle is said to have made a daily ritual of admiring these flowers in the morning, believing that their brightness brought prosperity to his domain. Even today, they seem to capture the spirit of that bygone era.
When azaleas take over from cherry trees
Did you think the cherry blossom show was the end of spring splendours? Wrong! In Japan, as soon as the sakura bow down, a real floral marathon takes over. And among the first participants in this colourful sport are azaleas.
These small vibrant flowers, belonging to the rhododendron family, light up the landscape in pink, red and white between mid-April and early May. In Japan two large categories of azaleas share the scene: tsutsuji, which form charming little round bushes, and satsuki, bonsai favourites with their late flowering.
These flowers find a setting that lives up to their splendour in the ruins of Yamanaka Castle, an exceptional historical site overlooked by the majestic Mount Fuji.
A page of history: Yamanaka Castle
Built in the 1560s by the Go-Hôjô clan, Yamanaka Castle was a feat of engineering for its time. Imagine a mountain castle made entirely from earth, strategically perched 580 metres above sea level and surrounded by steep slopes. The moat with its waffle-shaped grid was planned to hold back assailants – and had a rough beauty seen from above!
But the castle has a cruel history. In 1590 Toyotomi Hideyoshi, one of Japan’s greatest unifiers, attacked the castle with an army of 67,000 men. Yamanaka’s 4,000 soldiers only lasted a few hours before capitulating. It’s said that the castle was captured so fast that Toyotomi Hideyoshi had just enough time to drink his tea during the assault. Proof that power can sometimes outperform strategy … or that Hideyoshi had plenty of nerve! These ruins still recall this tumultuous time, and the remains of the moat and ramparts are a unique sight.
A breathtaking view
The park where the ruined castle stands and history and nature meet makes a lovely walk. Between the flowering azaleas and the breathtaking view of Mount Fuji, it’s a place where past and present blend harmoniously, a place where history whispers through each petal.
A tip: come along in good weather. From the ruins, above the green Shoji moat, you can see Mount Fuji in all its glory. A sight that left me speechless. Imagine for a moment the azaleas in full bloom, their flamboyant hues contrasting with the blue of the sky and the majestic silhouette of Fuji. You’ll have the impression of contemplating a living painting.
