Nomizo Falls: The Heart of Light

Five o’clock in the morning, I set off from Tokyo. It’s March, the weather looks good. This is the perfect time to visit a destination close to my heart: Nomizo Falls.

I cross Tokyo Bay (from Tokyo, Kawasaki in truth, to Chiba) via the Aqua-Line, an insane expressway 14 kilometres long, 10 of which are under water! This must be one of the longest submerged highways in the world.

I ease off the accelerator and run the old crate at a less frantic pace towards the heart of Chiba. Our waterfall is near the village of Kimitsu.

Nomizo no Taki

There’s already a certain ambiance. Japanese blokes with one eye glued to their camera settings (which never seem to be right) and the other on the young girls basking in the early morning light. The girls coo like turtle doves and I can see love hearts flying round their heads.

At the risk of ruining such an enjoyable experience, I won’t hide the true nature of the site: it’s a man-made cave that sees a lot of traffic! Even if everything makes you believe you’re in the Totoro heartlands, unfortunately, you’re not.

6.30am and Nomizo is quick to reveal itself. Little by little, a streak of light is emerging. Pretty impressive. The reflection gives us a warm glow despite the morning freshness.

No need to be a hopeless romantic to fall in love, is there? But it’s true that in a slightly different setting, it’d be easy to see a monstrous face, or some sort of demonic heart!

Next to the falls is a little shrine with countless ema (絵馬) attached to chains. These aren’t feckless young girls but bits of wood on which visitors write their wishes. Lovers have fun with them: forever, onegai!

At 7.30am, the show is already over. I know some abandoned sites in the area so I take the chance to see them again.

Sōjiin Shrine

As I wandered around the south of Chiba, I also came across this pretty shrine at Tateyama. Sure some of you will like it:)

Well, must go home. And again through that dark tunnel under the bay. Not very exciting but get on with it! Keep your spirits up!

Want to see a little more nature and magic in Chiba? Go and see my favourite tree: The Giant Maple Tree of Oihara. If you love waterfalls, you’ll love the pretty Nikko Falls (Nikko: Beautiful Waterfalls in Autumn).