The port city of Onomichi, on Seto Inland Sea, is known for its temples, hills, culture and … cats. It’s also an important waypoint in Hiroshima prefecture, at the start of the famed Shimanami Kaido tourist circuit.
Onomichi developed from the 12th century thanks to international trade through its port. The city was a focal point in exporting rice to China, allowing the region to enrich and expand.
The township’s most striking feature is that it’s built on a hillside. The winding alleys and stairways of this saka-machi have an authentic picturesque charm. Not to mention the magnificent view awaiting once you’ve climbed to the top.
Temple Walk
The city is home to twenty-five temples still in operation, which earned it the nickname “Little Kyoto of Setouchi”. A track connects all these temples over 2.5 km through the narrow, steep alleys of downtown Onomichi.
The best-known of the Onomichi temples is Senko-ji (千 光 寺), renowned for the beauty of its flowers in all four seasons. It’s also the starting point of the “Literature Path”.
Literature Path and cinema city
Onomichi has hosted many famous writers, such as Shiga Naoya, Hayashi Fumiko and Takahashi Genichiro. The Literature Path pays tribute to this cultural heritage with twenty-four stone monuments, engraved with quotations from their works, punctuating the route.
The curious silhouette of the steep streets has also charmed a number of directors. Several films and animations have been inspired by these locations. The best known is Tokyo monogatari (Tokyo Story), directed by Yasujiro Ozu in 1953. Kaneto Shindo shot two films in Onomichi in 1960, including Hadaka no shima (The Naked Island). And Nobuhiko Obayashi more than nine films in the 1980s. More recently, the TV anime series Kamichu! was inspired by several spots in the port city.
Neko no Hosomichi
Cats are the real stars of Onomichi. They’re found all over the city and warmly welcome visitors. An alleyway known as “Neko no Hosomichi” (Cat Alley) near Senko-ji temple is specially dedicated to them.
Shimanami Kaido
The Shimanami Kaido is one of the best known and most spectacular cycle routes in the archipelago. It lets you cross the islands of Seto Inland Sea by bike (or boat).
Onomichi is one of the departure cities and every year welcomes streams of tourists. The 70 km route takes in six islands, revealing the dream landscapes along the bay.
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