Japan has a very particular relationship with cats. Divinity (Maneki-neko, the cat that summons fortune), totem (the cat-goddess of Bashō), quiet co-habitant (cats of temples, cats of islands, cats of alleyways), and contemporary obsession (cat cafés, Instagram cats, feline manga), the cat is probably the only Japanese animal that has accompanied every era without rupture. After fifteen years photographing cats in this country, here are the places I’d recommend to actually meet them.
Gōtokuji Temple and the Maneki-neko
In Setagaya, western Tokyo, Gōtokuji Temple is considered the birthplace of the maneki-neko, the beckoning cats with raised paws you see on every Japanese shop counter. The legend says that in the 17th century, a feudal lord of the Ii dynasty was passing by when a cat motioned him to enter. A second later, lightning struck where he had been standing. The lord, moved, made the temple his family sanctuary. Today, thousands of small white ceramic maneki-neko, left by the faithful, cover the main pavilion in concentric rows. It’s a unique visual in Japan, deeply photogenic. Easy access from Shibuya, 30 minutes by train.
The cat islands of Setouchi and Kyushu
Japan officially has 11 cat islands where the feline population exceeds the human one. The two most famous are:
👉 Aoshima (Ehime), nicknamed simply “Cat Island”. 150 cats for a dozen residents, almost all elderly. 30-minute ferry from Nagahama. This is the island that appears in every international “Cat Island” report. Very beautiful but very fragile: the cats are old, partly sick, and the island has suffered from over-tourism since 2015. Visit with respect; don’t bring food without asking residents.
👉 Tashirojima (Miyagi), accessible from Ishinomaki. More authentic, less overrun, with a shrine dedicated to cats (Neko-jinja) at the island’s center. The feline population was historically sustained by local silk-worm farmers who saw cats as natural protectors against rodents.
👉 Manabe-shima (Okayama). A small island of 200 inhabitants and as many cats, in the Seto Inland Sea. It’s the island documented by French illustrator Florian Chavouet in his graphic novel Manabé Shima. Quieter, more welcoming than Aoshima, and probably the best cat island to visit for a European traveller.
👉 Ogijima (Kagawa). A contemporary-art island of the Setouchi Triennale, where the cat population settled naturally. The cats roam between art installations and steep alleyways. Combine with Manabe-shima over 2-3 days.
👉 Naoshima (Kagawa). Ogijima’s neighbour, the world-famous art island. The cats are less concentrated but everywhere, completely habituated to humans.
👉 Kumejima (Okinawa). The most tropical of the cat islands. Turquoise beaches, unique geological formations, and a relaxed feline population that sleeps in the shade of palm trees. Probably my favourite.
Onomichi and its cat alley
The town of Onomichi, on the Setouchi coast, is known for two things: its 25 temples clinging to the hillside, and its nekonomichi, the “cat alley” winding between the temples. The cats are cared for by residents, who have installed water dispensers, cushions, and even ceramic plaques bearing the names of the most well-known cats. Several Yasujiro Ozu films were shot here, and the neighbourhood keeps a strongly pre-war Japan atmosphere. Probably the best town to see cats in their urban element.
Inami and Yokamachi, the cat street
In Toyama Prefecture, at the heart of Inami village, Yokamachi Street is a 200-metre shopping street entirely devoted to cats. Cats carved on the lintels, cat-shaped street signs, decorated storefronts, and several actual cats spending their days there. Inami is also the Japanese capital of wood carving, which explains the concentration of carved cats. A small one-hour stroll, surprising and deeply endearing.
Unrin-ji, the carved cat temple
In a remote hamlet of Yamaguchi Prefecture sits Unrin-ji, a Zen temple entirely dedicated to cats. The main pavilion is filled with hundreds of carved wooden cats, left by the faithful as offerings, and a legend claims that a ghost cat still protects the site. Very little visited, almost secret. At the entrance, a sign summarises the philosophy: “A world that abandons its cats is a world destined for oblivion.” It’s hard to put it better.
Tokyo cat cafés
The neko café concept was born in Taiwan in 1998, imported to Japan in 2004 (Café Nekobukuro in Ikebukuro was the first), and has since spread worldwide. About a hundred exist in Tokyo. My two favourites:
- Mocha (Shibuya, Ikebukuro, Shinjuku). A high-end chain, very well-maintained environments, entry fee ¥600 for 10 minutes. The cats are visibly well treated and the ethics are above average.
- Nekorobi (Ikebukuro). Smaller, more intimate, house-like atmosphere. About twenty cats, free circulation, flat hourly fee.
An ethics note: not all cat cafés are equal. Some are less scrupulous, keeping cats in spaces too small or too loud. Check Google or Tabelog reviews, prefer places where cats have visible retreat areas and no cat is forced to interact. If a cat is sleeping, let it sleep.
Seeing cats without disturbing them
A few rules I’ve learned over the years:
- Never feed the island or alleyway cats without asking residents. Populations are managed locally, and inappropriate food (milk, salty leftovers) causes real health problems.
- Let cats come to you. If you crouch and stay still, curious cats will approach. If you chase them, they flee and learn that humans are a threat.
- No flash photography. Obvious for dogs, often forgotten for cats.
- Respect temple silence. At places like Gōtokuji, cats are there because it’s quiet. Don’t break it.
- No selfie with a cat held against its will. If a cat struggles, let it go.
How long for a “cat tour” of Japan
If a themed cat trip appeals to you, here’s an 8-10 day itinerary covering the essentials:
- Day 1-2: Tokyo (Gōtokuji + Mocha cat café)
- Day 3: train to Toyama, Inami and Yokamachi street
- Day 4-5: Onomichi (cat alley, temples)
- Day 6: Manabe-shima or Ogijima as a day trip from Onomichi
- Day 7: Unrin-ji (Yamaguchi), requires a rental car
- Day 8-10: flight to Okinawa, Kumejima for cats under palm trees
(I keep my personal map of cat spots on Ikuzo. Useful because the good places aren’t all in the guides.)
Why does Japan have so many cats
The cat arrived in Japan in the 6th century, imported from China along with the Buddhist sutras (the manuscripts were eaten by mice during sea crossings). For centuries, owning a cat was a privilege reserved for the aristocracy. Then, in 1602, the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu ordered all domestic cats to be released so they could fight the rodents threatening the silk industry. Overnight, Japan became a country of stray cats.
This history explains two things you see today: cats everywhere, especially in rural and insular areas (the former sericulture centres), and a particular cultural reverence for this animal, from Maneki-neko to pop culture (the cats of Studio Ghibli, Doraemon, Hello Kitty, Jiji from Kiki) to literature (Sōseki and his I Am a Cat). In 2026, it’s estimated that there are more domestic cats in Japan than children under 15. Make of that statistic what you will.