The first time I slept in a real ryokan, in Hakone, I had this strange feeling of having arrived somewhere deeper than a hotel. The nakai served me tea kneeling, then disappeared without a sound. For the two days that followed, I barely spoke. The ryokan is what taught me what silence and slowness actually mean in Japan.
A ryokan is the traditional Japanese inn. Tatami floors, hinoki wood baths, futons laid out in the evening and folded away in the morning, kaiseki dinner served in your room, the experience condenses, in one night, what sometimes takes weeks to grasp about Japan. It is also, in my view, one of the things most worth the detour, and what travelers most often skip out of budget concern.
Here’s a selection of ryokan I’ve actually stayed at and would recommend without hesitation, from the most accessible to the most iconic. It’s not exhaustive, but it’s honest.
Understanding what you’re buying
A ryokan is not a hotel. The night almost always includes kaiseki dinner and breakfast, and the ritual unfolds in an order that doesn’t change: arrival around 3-4 PM, welcome tea, bath (before dinner), dinner served in your room or a private dining space at 6-7 PM, futons laid out while you eat, second bath in the evening, breakfast at 7:30-8:30, departure at 10.
Pricing is almost always per person, double occupancy, half-board included. Budget:
- Â¥15,000 – Â¥25,000 per person for a decent ryokan
- Â¥25,000 – Â¥50,000 for an excellent one
- Â¥50,000 – Â¥150,000 for the iconic ones (and museum-ryokan like Asaba or Tawaraya)
One night in a ryokan is often worth more than two nights in a decent hotel. If your budget allows, do at least one per trip.
My picks by region
Hakone (90 minutes from Tokyo)
Gora Kadan, the icon. A former imperial summer residence turned luxury ryokan. Private outdoor baths in most rooms, masterful kaiseki, impeccable service. From ¥80,000 per person. My pick for a special occasion.
Hakone Ginyu, perched over a valley, breathtaking views from every room, private onsen on the balcony. More modern in aesthetic, perfect for those who want the ryokan experience without the museum feel. Â¥60,000 – Â¥90,000.
Tensui, more accessible (~Â¥25,000), with a traditional outdoor onsen and very respectable kaiseki. Great for a first time.
Kyoto and around
Tawaraya, founded over 300 years ago, it’s probably the most respected ryokan in Japan. Steve Jobs used to stay here. Just 17 rooms. No advertising, no website. You get in by recommendation. From Â¥80,000. An institution.
Hiiragiya, Tawaraya’s neighbor, founded in 1818, similar in spirit but slightly more accessible (~Â¥50,000-80,000). My choice when Tawaraya is full.
Yoshida Sanso, up on the heights of Higashiyama, a former residence of an imperial family member. Absolute calm, magnificent garden, delicious kaiseki. Harder to find, which is part of its charm.
Izu (peninsula southwest of Tokyo)
Asaba, Shuzenji village. A private outdoor Noh theater, hot springs that have flowed from the same ground for 8 centuries, a perfect garden. My absolute favorite. Budget Â¥60,000 – Â¥100,000.
Arai Ryokan, also in Shuzenji, more modest but authentic, with old buildings classified as historic monuments. ~Â¥30,000.
Kurokawa Onsen (Kyushu)
The whole village of Kurokawa is essentially a diffuse ryokan. The streets are gravel, the shops are wood, and the atmosphere is cinematic. My picks:
Yamamizuki, by a river, several outdoor onsen, excellent kaiseki. ~Â¥35,000.
Sanga Ryokan, accessible, with a beautiful rotenburo deep in the forest. ~Â¥25,000.
Tohoku (northern Japan, still under the radar)
Tsuru-no-yu (Akita prefecture), a historic onsen with a legendary mixed outdoor bath in a snow-covered forest in winter. The water comes out opaque, milk-white. Â¥15,000 – Â¥25,000. Rustic, but unforgettable.
Takamiya Ryokan Sagiya (Yamagata), on a high snowy plateau in winter, several baths, the warm Tohoku style of hospitality.
Hoshinoya, the modern high-end chain
The Hoshinoya group runs several design properties that reinterpret the ryokan in a clean contemporary aesthetic. My favorites:
- Hoshinoya Karuizawa, individual pavilions on the water in a forest
- Hoshinoya Kyoto, accessible only by boat up the Hozu river, an experience apart
- Hoshinoya Taketomi, on an Okinawa island, in a reconstructed traditional village
Budget Â¥60,000 – Â¥120,000. For those who want the ryokan experience without giving up modern comfort and refined design.
How to book
The best ryokan need to be booked 4-6 months ahead for popular seasons (spring, autumn, and of course Golden Week / New Year). Western sites like Booking or Expedia have spotty coverage. My preferred platforms:
- Japanican.com, widest catalog, in English
- Ryokan.or.jp, the national ryokan association, in English
- Relais & Châteaux Japan, for the most prestigious
- Your Tokyo hotel concierge, for iconic ryokan with no online booking
Making the most of your night
A few simple principles that change everything:
- Arrive early, ideally at 3 PM. You’ll have time for a first bath before dinner
- Wear the provided yukata everywhere in the ryokan, it’s the custom
- Accept the ritual: don’t ask to eat later than the scheduled time
- At the bath: wash sitting down before entering the water, in silence, no phone
- An envelope with a tip (Â¥3,000 – Â¥5,000) for the nakai (your room attendant) on arrival isn’t required, but is deeply appreciated
Above all: let yourself be carried. A ryokan is a ritual of slowing down.
For more, see also my guide to the best onsen in Japan and Where to Stay in Kyoto.