Onsen for Beginners

The onsen is one of those Japanese experiences that feels intimidating—and that’s normal. Getting completely undressed in front of strangers, not knowing where to put your towel, worrying about making a mistake… I felt all of that before my first bath. But once you’re in, you understand why Japanese people keep coming back: it’s one of the most relaxing experiences there is.

This guide is designed for those who’ve never set foot in an onsen. We cover the essential rules, the best destinations for beginners, and the questions everyone asks (yes, including the one about tattoos).

The basic rules

Onsen etiquette seems complicated, but it boils down to a few simple principles. Once you understand them, everything flows naturally.

1. Wash before entering the bath. This is THE fundamental rule. The bath water is shared—you never wash in it. Use the showers and stools provided, soap up completely, rinse thoroughly. Only then can you enter the pool.

2. No swimsuits. Traditional onsens are done nude. It’s disconcerting at first, but everyone is in the same situation—no one is looking at you. Baths are separated by gender (men/women), with rare exceptions.

3. The towel doesn’t go in the water. You can bring a small towel (tenugui) to cover yourself while walking, but it must never touch the bath water. Most people place it on their head or on the edge of the pool.

4. Tie up your hair. Long hair must not soak in the water. A hair tie or clip is enough.

5. Stay calm and quiet. The onsen is a place of relaxation. No phones, no photos, no loud conversations. Enjoy the silence.

Where to start: the best destinations

Not all onsens are equal for a first time. Some are more accessible, others more spectacular. Here’s my selection based on your profile.

For an easy first time: Hakone

Hakone is the most accessible onsen from Tokyo—about 1.5 hours by train. The region is full of ryokan and day-use facilities accustomed to foreign visitors. If you’re nervous, this is the ideal place to start. The waters are generally alkaline and gentle on the skin.

For strolling in yukata: Kinosaki

Kinosaki is onsen-hopping paradise. The town has seven public baths, and tradition dictates moving from one to another in yukata. It’s also one of the rare destinations openly welcoming to tattooed visitors. The atmosphere is magical in the evening when the lanes light up.

For legendary atmosphere: Ginzan

Ginzan looks like a movie set—and for good reason, it’s one of the inspirations for Spirited Away. Taisho-era wooden buildings line a river, lit by gas lamps. In winter, under snow, it’s surreal. Note: access is limited during peak season (reservations required for winter night visits).

For the most intense water: Kusatsu

Kusatsu is Japan’s most famous onsen—and the most acidic. The water has a pH of about 1.7 to 2.1, giving it an intense sensation and distinctive mineral smell. The town center is organized around the Yubatake, a steaming hot water field. It’s spectacular, but expect slightly sensitive skin after bathing.

For luxury and nature: Kurokawa

Kurokawa is a mountain village in Kyushu, designed around the onsen experience. The rotenburo (outdoor baths) are nestled in the forest, along the river. The atmosphere is romantic and rustic—lanterns at night, wooden architecture, silence. A pass lets you visit three baths of your choice among the various ryokan.

For a historic bath: Dōgo

Dōgo Onsen in Matsuyama is Japan’s oldest public bath—and one of the most beautiful. The main building (Honkan) is an architectural marvel. It’s also one of the best options for beginners: rules are clearly posted, and staff are used to foreign visitors.

For variety: Beppu

Beppu is Japan’s onsen capital—eight thermal districts, dozens of different water types, and “hells” (jigoku) to visit for the spectacle (too hot to bathe in). If you want to explore the diversity of Japanese waters, this is the place.

Understanding different waters

Not all hot spring waters are the same. Japan classifies its springs into about ten types based on chemical composition. In practice, here’s what you’ll feel:

• Alkaline waters (high pH) — Gentle, “soapy,” pleasant for the skin. This includes Gero and many baths in Hakone.
• Acidic waters (low pH) — More intense, with a pronounced mineral smell. Kusatsu is the extreme example.
• Sulfur waters — Recognizable by their egg-like smell and sometimes milky color. Noboribetsu and some Beppu baths.
• Iron-rich waters — Rust-orange tint, rich in iron. Arima’s “Kinsen” is famous for this.
• Saline waters — Salty, warming, good for circulation. Common in coastal onsens.

If you have sensitive skin, start with alkaline or neutral waters. Acidic waters can sting a bit on small cuts or irritations.

What if I have tattoos?

This is THE question everyone asks. The answer: it depends.

Historically, many onsens prohibit tattoos due to their association with yakuza. This rule is gradually relaxing, but it remains common in large establishments and traditional public baths.

Your options:

• Kinosaki — All seven public baths are officially open to tattooed visitors. This is rare and valuable.
• Private baths (kashikiri) — Most ryokan offer private baths bookable by the hour. You’re alone or with your partner/family, so no problem.
• Ryokan with in-room bath — High-end establishments often have a private rotenburo in each room.
• Cover-up patches — Some onsens accept covering small tattoos with adhesive patches. But this policy varies—ask first.

When in doubt, contact the establishment in advance. A simple email usually suffices.

Practical tips

The water is hot. Really hot. Some baths exceed 42-43°C (108-109°F). Enter gradually, and if you feel dizzy, get out and take a break. Alternating between the hot bath and cool air (or a cold bath if available) is part of the experience.

Stay hydrated. Drink water before and after. Most changing rooms have fountains or vending machines.

Avoid alcohol before bathing. Hot water dilates blood vessels—combined with alcohol, it can cause fainting. Save the sake for after.

Bring two towels. A small one to cover yourself while walking (and place on your head in the bath), a large one to dry off after.

Bring cash. Small local onsens often only accept cash. Entry typically costs between ¥300 and ¥1,000 ($2-7).

The onsen is one of those experiences that seems complicated from the outside but becomes natural once you try it. After your first bath, you’ll understand why Japanese people consider it an art of living. And you’ll probably want to go back the next day.